Hungary Transdanubia Travel Guide

Transdanubia begins at the foothills of the Alps to the west and extends as far as the Danube. In between, it takes in the volcanic cones north of Lake Balaton and the green and roiling Mecsek and Villany hills to the south. The sheer diversity of the region makes it he perfect rural holiday destination. There is so much to discover m the forested hills of Visegrad Pilis, Gerecse, Vertes and Bakony, with their nature protection areas, geological and biological rarities and the network of ruined romantic castles with a history stretching back to medieval times.

In the heart of Transdanubia, Lake Balaton, known locally as the “Hungarian Sea“, is a popular summer holiday destination, conjuring up memories of silky water and warm sunshine, sails gleaming in the distance, crisp wines, family get-togethers and children’s laughter. Balaton and the surrounding area offers all this and more, making it a place for all the family to enjoy.

For those who need peace and quiet on holiday, the villages further from the lake shore are a great getaway from the summer crowds. Nearer the lake, but away from the hustle and bustle, there are many places to explore, such as Balatonendred, where, more than a century ago, the tradition of embroidery arrived here from the Low Countries.

Szigliget forms a peninsula into the lake just to the west of Badacsony. Below the castle, perched upon a 242 metre hill, a charming village of thatched houses forms a semi-circle. The entire centre of the old village is on Hungary‘s register of protected buildings.

In each of the five winegrowing areas of Lake Balaton, old press houses nestling in the vineyards offer full and aromatic wines to consume on site or take away.

The areas along the lakeshore are a treasure trove of natural and historic delights, among them the Kali Basin, the Tihany Peninsula and the basalt peaks of the Tapolca Basin with their unforgettable panoramas. What’s more, you wont have to go far to explore local traditions. Magyarpolany and Majk proudly preserve their Baroque buildings, for example. The villages in the Velence Hills and of the Morjdistrict have two thousand years of viticulture and winemaking history to share. And the settlements skirting the basalt peaks of Somlo are renowned for their excellent Furmint and Juhfarka wines. There are plenty more wines to sample closer to Lake Balaton, a rich winegrowing country. The south-facing slopes along the shoreline are strewn with hundreds of vineyards from Balatonfured-Csopak to Badacsony, and north to the Balaton Uplands. The region is bordered by the Danube to the east and north, and famous all over the world for breathtaking views of the Visegrad Valley and Danube Bend. Explorers venturing further from the river will be rewarded by the beautiful vineyards and excellent wines of the towns of Aszar, Neszmely and Dunaalmas in the Gerecse foothills.

The region’s past and traditions are proudly displayed in dozens of village halls converted to showcase folk craftsmen and their diverse handicrafts, including woodcarvings, pottery and traditional long shepherd’s cloaks. And what were once village feast days and carnival celebrations are now exciting events in which visitors are invited to participate.

The gently rising hills of the southern counties, with the slopes of the Mecsek and Villany hills beyond them, produce some of the country’s loveliest landscape. In Spring, the many nature reserves burst into a riot of color, illustrating the breathtaking variety of sub-Mediterranean plant life flourishing here. The villages hidden in the valleys of this gently rolling countryside preserve their rich folk and national traditions – as the saying goes “There are as many customs as there are houses.” The Zselic, Volgyseg, Mecsek and Dunamente villages await visitors with many centuries of diverse traditions. In Somogy, locals bake langallo in wood-fired ovens, roasted suckling pig and its crackling is a delicacy in Villany, and the fish soup of Tolna is the villagers’ pride and joy. Folk architecture alone can take a visitor on a journey back through the centuries. The painted wooden frontispieces of Ormansag churches at Koros or the museum village of Szenna in the Zselic are prime examples. The tradition of hospitality handed down from father to son has served the celebrated wines of Southern Transdanubia very well. From Balatonboglar on the southern shores of Balaton, wine country extends across to the rolling Tolna countryside of the Danube at Szekszard, a region particularly highly regarded for its red wines.

Villany produces the finest reds in the area and has set about building an impressive international reputation in recent years. From the slopes along the Danube at Mohacs, it is possible to travel all the way to Pecs without ever leaving wine country. Visitors are invited to follow specially designed wine routes exploring a variety of lively and interesting activities as well as local festivals staged throughout the year. A glass or two in a shady glade or traditional peasant cooking served up in the cool of a cellar are guaranteed to get the conversation flowing and leave you with pleasant memories. But before you go home, be sure to pack some local delicacies and a bottle or two of Portugieser or Italian Riesling.

The Orseg and Gocsej ranges and the “Hungarian Alps” – in the foothills of the Sopron and Koszeg Hills – boast the greenest countryside Hungary has to offer. From Spring to Autumn, the cool air sweeping down from the real Alps to the west keeps the whole area lush and fresh. Every area of Transdanubia, from the Danube to the river Mura has its own unique features. The hills along the frontier offer woods to ramble in, paths suitable for cycling tours and the peace and quiet of unspoiled natural surroundings. Lake Ferto and the protected areas of Hansagmente are home to a remarkable diversity of bird life and offer a true eco-tour experience. The waters around Szigetkoz are ideal for a wide variety of water sports, including canoeing. In addition, villagers living in the rolling landscapes of Zala and Vas counties are happy to introduce visitors to ancient folk traditions and architecture. The tranquil landscape is also dotted with Romanesque churches, including those in Jak and Oriszentpeter, and a host of village spas allow tourists to refresh the body and soul after a long day’s hiking or sightseeing. The baths of Sarvar and Bukk, as well as the smaller spas in Kehidakustany, Hegyko and Borgata, are a worthwhile day-trip destination for young and old in themselves.

Visitors exploring the villages in Hungary’s western counties also have a host of activities and events to chose from. Transdanubia is perfect country for cycling tours, visiting peaceful medieval churches sampling the fine wines of Sopron and Pannonhalma, and observing the deft hands of the Gocsej potters at work.

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